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Dolores Hidalgo is the birthplace of the Mexican revolution, where the independence movement began in earnest. On September 16th, 1810, Father Miguel Hidalgo rang the church bells earlier than usual, and issued the Grito de Dolores, the cry of grievances that proclaimed death to bad government and the gachupines, the Spanish overlords who had subjugated the country for more than 300 years. After the grito Hidalgo, Allende and other conspirators freed some of their compatriots from the town jail and set off towards San Miguel at the head of a growing band of criollos, mestizos and native indians. The campaign would bring them to their deaths within a few months, but it ultimately led to the ouster of the Spanish overlords and Mexican independence. Today Hidalgo is Mexico's most revered hero, and visiting Dolores has acquired virtual pilgrimage status for modern Mexicans.
The town is located about 55 kilometers northeast of Guanajuato and about 40 kilometers northwest of San Miguel de Allende in the rolling hills of northern Guanajuato state. There is a growing pottery making center, particularly in turning out simple and pretty glazed Talavera tiles in the Puebla style. Other than the independence monuments there is not that much to recommend the town, all of the interesting attractions are located in and around the zocalo, also known as the Plaza Principal. Each year on the anniversary of independence on September 16th, there are major fiestas and celebrations in the main plaza and all over the town.
The Cathedral of Nuestra Senora de Dolores and the Plaza Principal
The large central plaza of Dolores Hidalgo is conceived as a lush garden, with curving paths lined with vegetation, and a variety of trees and plants. The cathedral of Nuestra Senora de Dolores dominates the north side of the plaza with it's tall twin-towered facade and exuberantly Churrigueresque portal panel, and the adjoining chapel and cloister on the east, or right side of the picture. On the west side is the dark red colored Presidencia Municipal, with it's continuous arcades on 3 sides, this contains government offices organized around an interior courtyard with a vaulted glass roof. |
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Churrigueresque Facade of Nuestra Senora de Dolores
The facade of the cathedral of Nuestra Senora de Dolores is dominated by the tall twin towers with their 3 story pavilions on top. Between the towers there is an exuberantly Churrigueresque front panel with deep triple pilasters framing an arched doorway below and a small square window at the second level. A broad set of stone steps leads up to the doorway, and there is a large clock above the portal panel. The bases of the towers are treated as stucco walls with small rectangular windows. |
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Statue of Father Miguel Hidalgo in the center of the Plaza Principal
In the center of the Plaza Principal a circular lawn trimmed with hedges encloses the base and pedestal bearing the statue of Miguel Hidalgo, the father of modern Mexico. A rusticated round base carries a square stone pedestal with corner pilasters and bronze sculptural panels on the sides. Above this a tall white marble pedestal bears the bronze statue on top, it has 4 bronze eagles guarding the corners at the base, and bronze feathers and scrolls on the shaft. Hidalgo is depicted instride in a Toga, exhorting the people with his raised right arm, while carrying the banner of independence on his left. |
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The Palacio de la Patricia on the West side of the Plaza Principal
This view is looking west |
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The Nino del Arbol de la Noche Triste in the Plaza Principal
The Nino del Arbol de la Noche Triste, or sapling of the tree of the sad night, takes up a large space in the southeastern part of the Plaza Principal. It's ancestor is said to have been the tree under which Hernan Cortez wept and then slept, when he and his soldiers were driven out of Tenochtitlan in 1520. The child has since become an enormous tree with thick boughs of green needles, which form a circular space around the gnarly old trunk. Beyond the veil of the foliage, the twin-towered facade of the cathedral is faintly visible in the background. |
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View and Reflection from the Room in the Posada Cocomacan
This view is |
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South Facade of the Cathedral viewed from across the Zocalo
This view is |
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